I am in Ålesund and it is quite possibly my favourite of the Norwegian ports of call. It has nothing to do with the sightseeing, the people or the fjords. It is solely down to the coffee.
Now if you have read enough of these blogs or know anything about me you will know I am partial to a coffee or two. However, if you have seen any posts on my social media when I am lucky enough to be meandering through this fabulous country you will recall many, many times when I have written disparagingly about the Norwegian’s proficiency when it comes to brewing a decent coffee.
This all changed a few years ago when I visited Ålesund for the first time. As is my way, my first stop in a new town was for coffee but it was Norway so my hopes weren’t especially high. I decided to skip the main street and headed up a side road and almost immediately I saw it written in chalk. ‘God Kaffe’ . Well, that had to be a sign so in I popped.
Usually, I find a coffee shop for my morning fix and take the chance to find out what I need to see. I use the time to create a plan for the day. Not that day. The place was screaming at me to stay put. Not only was the coffee really good (They use the V60 apparatus and each coffee is painstakingly made through a filter process. They call it ‘the drip’ here.) there was a record player too.
“Pick an album, anything you like!” I was told by the barista. She pointed to the row of vinyl which was right beside my table. I flicked through the choice which included Foo Fighters, Billy Joel, The Beach Boys and Springsteen. God Kaffe and this music collection…I am clearly in heaven.
Pet Sounds was already playing when my first coffee arrived. I stayed most of the day and I enjoyed several coffees, some of which I hadn’t ordered – they were just given to me to taste courtesy of the owner. I loved this coffee shop and as I left, eventually, I told the barista just that and how I could not wait to return.
You’ll appreciate my disappointment when the next time I was lucky enough to visit Ålesund this delight of a coffee shop had gone. It was now a shoe shop. Not even God Shoes! (God Sko)
On another cruise around Norway I found myself in Geiranger. I stumbled across a coffee shop – not ideal, full of guests from the ship – but I was early so I ordered a drip coffee and headed to the comfy seat I’d spotted and started to read. A good few minutes later my coffee showed up. I put down my book and took a sip. Then, immediately, a second sip. Then a third. There was something familiar about this coffee. Excitedly, I headed over to the counter and told them how much I was enjoying the coffee and how it reminded me of the coffee I had once enjoyed in Ålesund.
“This coffee is from Ålesund!” I was told. I became even more excited when I learned that although the coffee shop was no longer around the owners had a roastery there now with a coffee shop that held “unusual hours.”
Now Geiranger is around 80 miles south east of Ålesund and would you believe it the ship was heading there next.
I didn’t set my alarm for the next morning. It was much like Christmas for me when I was a kid. I was up, showered, dressed and out on deck long before we docked.
I bumped into one of the other Guest Entertainers. It has capitals because it’s my job title. We entertain the guests onboard the ships so it can’t have taken them long to come up with a title for our jobs. There is every chance the guys in charge of creating these job titles were also on the committee who named the Avenues in New York City.
I am not fabulous around people and even less fabulous around other entertainers so I was hoping this would be a quick catch up before we went our separate ways.
“Any plans for today?” I asked, hopeful to be told his hours ashore were to be jammed with activities.
“Nothing. You?”
This is an easy get out I think as I tell him of my plan to find a coffee roasters owned by the family who used to run my favourite, although now nonexistent, coffee shop.
“Sounds fun…” I didn’t hear what was said after those first two words. I was crest fallen, and worse, I could think of no other way to ensure this venture would reman solo. So off we walk, down the gangway, me and another Guest Ent. Obviously I am not going to tell you who this was. I wouldn’t do that, ever. Ever.
I wasn’t sure exactly where this place was, I just followed my nose, literally. I was close. I could smell it.
When found, it took me seconds to become firm friends with….damn it, the owner. I can’t recall his name but I savour being shown around the roastery and listen intently to everything I am told.
After my tour I asked if there was any chance of a coffee.
“We aren’t actually open just now.”
“Of course, I was told you had unusual hours. What are they?” I asked
“10 until 1.” He tells me and I looked at my watch.
“It’s ten past eleven…”
“On a Friday!”
I laughed heartily.
“Do you want to know why?” He asked with a wry grin.
“Yes please.”
He looked me dead in the eye and told me,
“I don’t like people!”
Just then the other Guest Ent asked,
“Do you have Wi-Fi?”
I raised my eyebrows.
He smiled.
I LOVE this guy. He could be my soul mate!
I think he felt the same. As we left, he gave me a knowing wink and invited me back any time.
